Classic red lips, ombré lips and glitter lips
This week we were focusing on the lips, different lip shapes and techniques to change these shapes.
So let's see some lip lining techniques to create different shapes:
Photo taken by me
Holly, our lecturer started the demo with a classic red lip look.
Classic Red Lips:
After washing and sanitising her hands, Holly cleansed, toned and moisturised the model's skin. She really massaged the cream into the skin with with circular motions. This helps to plump up the skin and to increase the blood flow. She also asked the model if she is allergic to anything. It is very important to prep the skin thoroughly and create a flawless complexion as this will make the red lips to stand out even more.
Holly also applied some lip primer by MAC (MAC Prep&Prime) to soften the lips. She then applied some concealer all over the lips to counteract the natural colour of the lips. Lip Erase by MAC is also a great choice for this.
Holly used Brick Lip Liner by MAC to line the lips. She started with the Cupid's Bow, working her way towards the corners of the lips. When she reached the corners she stretched the skin to smooth out the fine lines to achieve an even line. Holly also asked us to always make sure that the corners are filled in as well, as this is a common mistake when applying lipstick. After lining the lips, Holly filled in the lips with the same lip liner pencil. Another good tip is to always step back to check symmetry!
Holly then applied Ruby Woo lipstick by MAC.
A really good technique to make your lipstick last longer is to use separate the layers of a tissue and place a thin layer onto the lips to blot them. Then apply translucent powder to the lips, through the thin layer of the tissue. Apply another coat of lipstick and blot again.
Ombre lips:
To create the ombre effect on the lips, Holly worked on top of the red lipstick as this was a quicker option, but she said we can remove the red and start fresh.
This time, instead of starting with the Cupid's Bow, she started lining the lips in the outer corners with a lip pencil called Vino by MAC, leaving the centre of the lips light.
She than applied Diva lipstick by MAC in the middle with patting motions and blended the edges for an ombre effect. Leaving the centre of the lips light will make the lips pop.
Another really good tip is to add some pigments on top of the lipstick to really mattify the look. Holly added a pigment called Neo Orange by MAC to the centre. This has really made a difference.
Glitter lips:
The third look Holly demonstrated for us was the glitter lips look. She used MAC Lip Mix in Black as a base. As we don't have this product in our kit, Holly suggested that we use MAC Black Track eyeliner instead.
Instead of lining the lips first, she filled in the lips starting from the inner parts of the lips, working her way towards the edges.
To add the glitter on top of the base Holly used a MAC Mixing Medium. She also warned us to always use the water based mixing medium for the face, as there are a few different types of mixing mediums and not all of them are suitable for the delicate skin of the face.
Types of mixing mediums:
- Water based
- Alcohol based
- Gel based
- Eyeliner mixing medium
- Lash mixing medium
Holly used the water based mixing medium to mix the pigment with. She than applied the glitter on top of the black base, making sure to use a tissue underneath the lips to catch any fallouts.
Practical:
Classic Red Lips:
I started the practical session by covering my model's clothes with a cape and by applying a headband to smooth her hair out of her face. I than washed and sanitised my hands.
As I am touching my client's hair when putting on the headband, I like to wash my hands afterwards. This way I can really make sure that my hands are completely clean before I touch my client's skin.
We were requested not to focus on the skin today, but focus on the lips so I only applied a little bit of MAC Face and Body, mixing two colours together to get the perfect shade; and applied concealer to the areas where she needed a little bit more coverage (e.g.: her cheeks, and underneath her eyes). I than applied a little bit of Ben Nye Translucent Powder to set the base.
Photo by me
I than moved on to the lips. I started by lining her top lips, starting in the Cupid's bow. As my model had a tiny little mole right at the edge of her top lip, I found it fairly difficult to create a symmetric, even line, as you can see in the below picture:
Photo by me
Stepping back a little helped me to spot this mistake and correct it.
Photo by me
After filling in the lips with Brick lip Pencil by MAC, I applied Russian Red over the lip liner. I used a thin layer of a tissue to blot the lipstick and to apply translucent powder. To finish off the look, I applied another layer of lipstick.
Ombré lips:
The ombre technique is a great way to make your lips appear slightly fuller and poutier in my opinion. It is basically "contouring for the lips": Use darker colour to hide or make things look more sunken in, and use lighter colour to bring something forward. So the centre part of the lip appears closer to us, making the lips look poutier.
To create this look I left the red lipstick on as a base and applied a deep wine colour lip liner in the corners of the lips, leaving the centre light. I than applied a tiny bit of Ruby Woo lipstick by MAC to the centre of the lips to be able to blend it with the wine colour lip liner. To finish the look, I gently pushed a bit of Neo Orange pigment by MAC into the lipstick, but only the centre part of the lips. This really brought everything together and made the lips pop.
Photo by me
Photo by me
Photo by me
Before and after (after picture with flash)
I think I have done a pretty good job changing the shape of my model's bottom lip. As you can see on the above picture, my model had a slightly thinner, flat bottom lip so I slightly overdrawn the lip at the centre part to make it look poutier.
The most difficult part of lipstick/ lip liner application with this particular model was to draw an even line on top of her tiny mole right at the edge of her top lip.
Glitter lips:
Again, I started the makeup application by covering my model's clothes and put on a headband to smooth back her hair. After washing and sanitising my hands, I cleansed, toned and moisturised her skin, making sure to really massage it in the skin.
After applying foundation and concealer on my model, I applied Ben Nye Translucent powder in the T zone. The focus was on the lips again, so I did not spend too much time perfecting the skin.
As we don't have MAC Lip Mixes in our college kits, we used MAC Black Track gel eyeliner as a base. I used a fine, angled eyebrow brush to apply Black Track on the lips. I really like using this type of a brush for the lips because I can create a really precise, crisp line with it. As it is angled it's perfect for the Cupid's bow as well. It makes the application so much easier.
As my model had a cold sore I used a disposable lip liner brush in the bottom left corner of her lips, where the cold sore was, and I also made sure to soak my angled liner brush in IPA and clean it thoroughly after the application to avoid cross-contamination.
I than mixed MAC Black 3D glitter with water based mixing medium and applied this paste over the black base. Just a quick note to say that I did not want to apply any foundation or concealer to hide her cold sore because I did not want to slow down the healing process by blocking it with heavy products.
The final look:
Product List for Classic Red Lips:
- MAC Face&Body Foundation in shades C3 and C4
- NYX Pro Concealer Palette
- Ben Nye Translucent Powder
- MAC Brick lipliner pencil
- MAC lipstick in Russian Red
Product List for Ombré Lips:
- MAC Brick lipliner
- MAC Russian Red lipstick
- LCBT lip liner pencil in Wine shade
- MAC Ruby Woo lipstick
- MAC Neo Orange pigment
Product List for Glitter Lips:
- Kaeso Beauty Calming Cleansing Milk
- Kaeso Calming Toner
- Kaeso Calming Moisturiser
- MAC Face&Body foundation in C3
- NYX Pro Concealer Palette
- Ben Nye Translucent Powder
- MAC Black Track gel eyeliner
- MAC Black 3D glitter
- MAC Water Based Mixing Medium
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