Formative Practical Assessment- Hair

Recreating the Zac Posen SS15 Hair Style

After last week's Makeup Assessment, this week we had to recreate the hairstyle for our chosen catwalk look. For me it was the The Zac Posen SS15 look. The dewy skin-statement lips makeup combo was beautifully complimented by a wet-effect, slicked back hair look at the show. Here is my mood board for this hair look.

Mood Board for wet hair style

I started  off this look by spraying some Heat Protecting spray by Got2B through the length of the hair. I than straightened the whole hair working my way from the bottom layer to the top layer of the hair. Once the hair was straight and smooth, I created a deep side parting on dry hair. With the help of a tail-comb I applied a generous amount of L'Oreal Studio Indestructible Extreme Glue hair gel on the top of the hair and on both sides, making sure to only apply this product about half way through the hair but not on the lengths, as I wanted to leave the ends of the hair loose. This product helped me to create an ultra-glossy look. I than used a wide-tooth comb to brush the sides tight against the hair in an upward motion.

I clipped down the sides to help the hair to keep its position until the hair gel dries. Once the product dried I removed the clips. I combed the front section of the hair in an upward swoop to create a modern push wave. This was probably the most difficult part of the look, because the hair already had lots of product in it, which made the hair less manageable. I used the tail of a tail-comb to help me crate the push wave and to detail the look. I than dried the hair on low-setting to set the hair. I applied OGX Biotin & Collagen Oil Treatment on the lengths to add more shine to the ends of the hair. I sprayed the whole hair with hair spray and finished the look by spraying a generous amount of Shine Spray by Got2Be to make it look super-glossy and wet-looking.

And the final result:

Formative practical assessment- MakeUp

Practical assessment: Recreating the Zac Posen SS15 Hair- and Makeup look:

After researching all four fashion shows for the formative assessment, I decided to go for the Zac Posen SS15 look. Simply because I think that a red lip is such a classic and timeless look. However you have to be very careful when applying red lipstick. It can definitely be a statement or it can ruin the whole look, if not applied carefully.

There are a few things that a make-up artist has to keep in mind when creating a red lip look:

• The skin has to be flawless
• Tone the rest of the makeup down
• The lines have to be very crisp
• Know what shade is good for you or for your model
• Always apply lip liner first
• Blot the first layer, apply translucent powder on top, and apply a second layer to make the lipstick last longer
• Don't let the lipstick end up on your teeth

This make-up look for Zac Posen's show also has a modern twist to it, thanks to the glossy eyes and the wet-looking hairstyle. It is simple, bold and sophisticated, just like the collection itself. Very ladylike in my opinion.

Mood board-Side 1

Mood board- Side 2

So let's see what products I've used on my model to recreate this elegant, classic, yet modern look:

Products used:

• Cleanser, toner, serum, moisturiser
• MAC Face and Body Foundation in shades C3, C4 and N7
• MAC Strobe Cream
• NYX Dark Circle Concealer in DCC02 (peachy shade)
• Dermacolor Camouflage Palette in shades D3, D4 and D5
• Ben Nye Translucent Powder in shade Fair
• Essence All about sunrise palette- Color No.5
• Vaseline
• MAC Ebony Eye Pencil
• MAC Haute& Naughty Too Black Lash Mascara
• MAC Ruby Woo Lip Pencil
• MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick
• MAC Lady Danger lipstick on top of Ruby Woo
• MAC Brow Set Clear eyebrow gel

Step-by-step application:

1. I started the make-up by prepping the skin. I cleansed my model's skin, using a cleansing milk. I than used a calming toner followed by a Vitamin E serum on the dry areas of my model's skin. I than massaged a generous amount of calming moisturiser into his skin, to increase the blood flow.
2. I decided to continue with the eyes before the skin, to avoid any fallouts underneath the eyes. I first applied a black eyeliner to the upper waterline to really intensify the lashes. 
3. I curled the lashes and applied two coats of black mascara, using a fan brush. This was really helpful as I was working with Vaseline on top of the eyeshadow and it would have been really difficult to lift the eyelids when applying mascara, with a sticky, slippery layer of Vaseline on the eyelids. So mascara went on first. 
4. I than decided to actually mix the eyeshadow with Vaseline and patting the mixture onto the eyelids, rather than applying the eyeshadow first, followed by Vaseline. I simply used my fingers to pat the eyeshadow-vaseline mixture onto the eyelids.
5. I than moved on to the skin. I used a peachy toned concealer underneath the eyes to counteract any blueness.
6. I than mixed three shades of MAC Face & Body (C3, C4 and N7) to create the perfect shade for my model's skin tone.
7. I mixed this with equal amount of MAC Strobe Cream and applied this mixture to the skin, using a flat foundation brush. To buff the foundation in, I used a Beauty Blender.
8. For this look it is very important to keep the skin fresh and dewy, therefore I did not want to add too much concealer, so I decided to pinpoint conceal any blemishes, using my Dermacolor Concealer palette and a small pointy brush. 
9. Once I was happy with his skin, I applied a translucent powder by Ben Nye but only to the T-Zone to keep the dewiness of the high points of the face. 
10. I also added some extra strobe cream to the cheekbones using my fingers.
11. After the skin, I went back to the eyebrows. I brushed them upwards and run some clear eyebrow gel through the brows. I did not use any other products on the eyebrows as my model has lovely thick and dark brows anyway.
12. After the face was done it was time to move on to the lips. I lined his lips first, using MAC's Ruby Woo lip pencil, and also filled in the lips with the same pencil.
13. I than applied a layer of MAC Ruby Woo lipstick, using a small angled lip brush.
14. I blot the first layer with a tissue, than separated the layers and placed it onto the lips.
15. I applied a small amount of translucent powder on top of the lipstick through the tissue.
16. I applied another layer of Ruby Woo lipstick and blot it again
17. This was followed by a layer of MAC Lady Danger lipstick to achieve the perfect shade of red

Some pictures of the makeup application:

With the lip pencil on, before lipstick application

Before adding lipstick

Before lipstick application

Timing of makeup application:

Prepping the skin: 

5 minutes- Cleanse, tone, moisturise- really work the moisturiser into the skin to boost the blood flow in the skin.

Eyes:

15 minutes- Eye liner on upper waterline, Curling the lashes, Applying thin coat of mascara, Mixing eyeshadow with Vaseline and patting onto the eyelids, Eyebrows: clear brow gel

Skin:

20 minutes- Color correcting, mixing strobe cream with foundation, applying and buffing in foundation, concealing and pin point concealing blemishes, more strobe cream, powder

Lips:

20 minutes- Line the lips- really precise, crisp line!, Ruby Woo, blot, Ruby Woo and Lady Danger on top

And the final result:

And of course: us posing:)

Before, after and together:)

Conclusion:

The two most important things that I've learnt doing this look were to make sure to perfect the skin and take time with your lip pencil and lipstick to achieve crisp lines on the lips. It is extremely important to use a sharp lip pencil and do not rush the application! Be patient and leave plenty of time for the lips, to avoid rushing. Stressing about things make everything 10 times worse! 
A small angled lip liner brush is also very useful in my opinion. I find it easier to use an angled brush, as it perfectly fits into the Cupid's bow making your life much easier.
I think I've done a pretty good job on the model's skin, because I made sure it's dewy but also concealed his blemishes. I could have used a bit more concealer underneath the eyes where he had some dark circles.
I did not worry too much about applying an eyeshadow base. The eyeshadow-vaseline mixture did crease a little bit on the eyelids, but because this is a catwalk look, it would be seen from a distance anyway.
If it was an editorial look, I probably would not use Vaseline. Overall I did enjoy creating this look, and perfecting the application of a red lipstick is a MUST for a make-up artist.
When Holly came around to check our work she pointed out that I did not apply the lipstick properly in one of the corners of the mouth, so I corrected that mistake straight away. She also advised me not to be afraid to really stretch out the skin in the corners of the lips, to smooth the tiny wrinkles when applying lip products.

Reference:

[Online] Available at: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/38/f9/62/38f962a40bc051df3d0661ee23beed2d.jpg
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Zac Posen SS15 Collection

NYFW- Zac Posen SS15 Collection

Zac Posen's SS15 collection was all about the balance between classic, sophisticated lines and sexiness. His only colours were black, white and red. I think the simplicity of the hair and make-up complimented the collection very well. Nothing too over the top, just simple red lips, dewy, glowing skin, glossy eyes and slicked back, wet-looking skin.
My personal favourite part of the show is when Anna Cleveland comes to the runway. There is only one word for the way she walks, the way she looks, the dress, the look, the pose, even the way she holds her hands, and that word is: Lady :) Have a little look yourself at 07:40 in the video at the bottom of the page. So beautiful.
To me this collection was so chic and elegant, just like a lady.

1.

Hair & Make-Up:

At Zac Posen SS15, the focus was definitely on healthy, glowing skin paired with classic, graphic red lips and subtle glossy eyes.

Key make-up artist Kabuki for MAC Cosmetics explained: 

"Simplicity is its strength, which fits with mood of this season's collection"

He first used witch-hazel to cleanse and tone the skin. He than applied a clear primer, followed by a thin layer of MAC Face & Body foundation. Her used warmer tones around the outer parts of the face and across the nose and cheeks. He than used a touch of cream blusher to warm up the cheeks. He used MAC Shine Mixing Medium to add glow to the top of the cheekbones. For any blemishes or discolourations, he used MAC Studio Finish Concealer and applied it with a tiny brush. He used a slightly peach toned concealer to counteract the blueness underneath the eye area.
Kabuki used MAC Groundwork Paint Pot to shape and lightly sculpt the eyes. He than mixed MAC Pro Gloss Texture and MAC Pro Reflects Pearl Glitter together and applied the mixture over the base.
Both the top and bottom lashes were coated with two coats of Haute& Naughty Black Lash Mascara.

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To achieve the perfect red pout, he filled in the lips with Cherry Lip Pencil to enhance the lip shape before adding Red Lip Mix in a deep orangey red tone.
Talking about red lips, here is a great tip on how to make your lipstick last longer, because when you apply a bold shade on your lips, you want it to last as long as possible, don't you?
So here is how:
Once you filled in the lips with lip pencil, apply a coat of lipstick. Blot it with a tissue, than split a tissue in half so that it's a thin layer, place it over your lips and apply plenty of translucent powder on top. Apply a second coat of lipstick, then blot again and you're good to go! :)

Hair:

The key hair stylist for the collection was Odile Gilbert for Kérastase Paris.
She first created a deep side parting on dry hair, and put plenty of Kérastase Forme Fatale (a water-based gel, ideal for fine hair, brings volume, texture and shine) on the top and sides of the head for a glossy look. Using a small tooth-comb, she combed the side in an upward motion, tight against the head and worked in more Forme Fatale. She then added Lift Vertige (root lifting gel) to the front section for volume and combed this part in an upward swoop to create a modern push wave, using the tail of the comb to help detail the look. Next she blow dried the push wave to set it and applied Kératine Thermique (smoothing taming milk) through the rest of the lengths to create a shiny, wet look. Finally, she locked everything in place with Laque Noire (hairspray).

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Reference:

1. Rookie (2014) Zac Posen's striking ss15 styles NYFW [Online]

Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPh5nqo0CsqtBQ_bx7cWlT3leBcU6fXydBxx2Fg7oOHhJeXm4jHg5QwTvRsKH5sqG5Q3x0qXvz-Cv7sV8YjwvOoogyc46_PM1TI3viaq0ooN01f0k9ffrlLtExrmiW0Le4U4yWx35uphMQ/s1600/zacposen.png

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

2. A chic life (2014) NYFS S/S15 Beauty Trends Off The Runway.[Online]

Available at: http://www.boro.gr/contentfiles/galleryfiles/p19ntpllb51bsp1aqmkq2hvd1j5t6.jpg

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

3. Timms, E.(2014) Beauty Trends: New York Fashion Week SS15 [Online]

Available at: http://www.buro247.com/thumb/640x960_0/156_4.jpg

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

4. [Online] Available at: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/38/f9/62/38f962a40bc051df3d0661ee23beed2d.jpg
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

5. (2014) Runway Beauty: Glowy skin with red lips at Zac Posen Spring/ Summer 2015 [Online]
Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

6. [Online] Available at: http://www.herworldplus.com/sites/default/files/The%20only%20tips%20you’ll%20ever%20need%20to%20make%20lipstick%20last%20all%20day!%20ZAC%20POSEN%20SS15.png
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

7. (2014) Steal this bold rep lip from Zac Posen's show [Online] 
Available at: http://stylecaster.com/beauty-high/red-lipstick-trick-zac-posen-fashion-week/
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

8. [Online]
Available at: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/54d903c5e4b0979f4046c127/54eb528ae4b071b692387e31/54eb528be4b071b692387f1b/1424708235365/1000w/
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

9. (2014) Runway Beauty: Glowy skin with red lips at Zac Posen Spring/ Summer 2015 [Online]
Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

10.(2014) Runway Beauty: Glowy skin with red lips at Zac Posen Spring/ Summer 2015 [Online]
Available at: http://makeupforlife.net/2014/09/glowy-skin-red-lip-zac-posen-spring-summer-2015.html
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

11. Galli, S (2014) Wet Hair [Online]
Available at: http://www.mimmotortola.com/rubriche/wet-hair-capelli-effetto-bagnato/
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)
Posen, Z. (2014) Zac Posen Spring-Summer 2015 Runway Show [Online]
Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQFRywqg2yo
(Accessed: 04 December 2015)
Available at: http://video.vogue.com/watch/followme-kabuki-recreates-the-textured-graphic-makeup-at-zac-posen-show

Fashion show research- Formative assessment

Current Trends- Catwalk Looks

• Tanya Taylor NYFW SS/15
• Burberyy LFW AW14
• Marc Jacobs SS/14
• Zac Posen NYFW SS/15

Tanya Taylor NYFW SS/15:

1.

They key make-up look for this show was a crisp, fresh but bold look. The lead make-up artist was Uzo, NARS International Lead Makeup Stylist.

"The Tanya Taylor woman loves a surprise and appreciates the unexpected. Her make-up mirrors that expression again this season with classically radiant and highlighted skin combined with shockingly bright orange-red lip."- Uzo

Key products used to create this look:

Face:

2.

Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser

Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer

Cheeks:

Nars Copacabana Illuminator

Nars Laguna Illuminator(for darker skin tones)

Nars Anguilla Matte Multiple

Nars Siam Matte Multiple(for darker skin tones)

Eyes:

Nars Goddess Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

Nars Skorpios Soft Touch Shadow Pencil(for darker skin tones)

Nars Albatross Highlighting Blush

Nars Nepal Shimmer Eyeshadow

Nars Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara

Lips:

Nars Playa Dorado Velvet Lip Liner

Nars Timanfaya Satin Lip Pencil

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6.

7.

Burberry AW14:

1.

"The Bloomsbury girls"

The inspiration behind the Burberry AW14 collection was the boho Bloomsbury set of 1920s London.
Makeup artist Wendy Rowe and hair stylist Neil Moodie perfectly mirrored this with the hair and make-up. Wendy used subtle sweeps of colour for the Burberry AW14 campaign.
Wendy swept mulberry eyeshadow on the top and bottom eyelids for a wash of colour and blended the edges with her fingertips. The finished look is almost like the models have done it themselves, with no proper shapes and it gives the feeling of boho innocence. Wendy pressed mauve lipstick into the lips.
Neil Moodie hair stylist explained how he created an effortless, natural texture by using detangling spray and a bit of oil to give the hair a natural sheen. Then used a hair drier diffuser with a slightly off-centre parting to create an undone, almost windswept effect letting the natural texture come through.

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Marc Jacobs SS14:

Marc Jacobs is definitely a designer who can always surprise me. You just never know what to expect from him. This was the case with his SS14 collection.
The collection was definitely not something you would expect for a spring/summer collection. There were mainly dark colours, dresses were dark, gothic and dramatic, with oversized jackets.
I really liked the darkness of the set and the music, and I liked some pieces of the collection, but overall I wouldn't say it was my cup of tea. Some pieces were nearly a bit too goth for my taste. But I really liked the idea of it being dark for a spring/summer collection as it is very unexpected.
I found the hairstyle very weird but in a sort of good way. The uniformed, short blonde wigs complimented the music, the set and the collection very well. It was very odd. I felt like I'm watching a Tim Burton movie:)

1.

Make-up:

Apart from focusing on the dresses, fashion shows are a good chance to see what are the upcoming beauty trends. A huge trend that came out this season was definitely the blue eye.
Francois Nars created two different looks at the show, using teal and royal blue.

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"This is a summer look that's all about the eye"- explained Francois. "Most of the girls have a teal blue line, but some have royal blue, extending past both the inner and outer corner. The skin is very transparent for a flushed look. Marc wanted the girls to look beautiful and edgy- interesting, but not too pretty."
Nars used a mixture of NARS Blue Dahlia and Kalisté eye pencils. Nars kept the skin fresh and glowing, using Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser. He did not apply any blush or lipstick, but when it came to mascara "we're using as much as possible. It's a little bit decadent, a little too thick"- he explained.

5.

Hair:

"Marc always loves a free-spirited woman. The kind of girl that has her own style and does her own thing or maybe cuts her own hair"- says Guido Palau backstage at the show, explaining Marc's preference for character over prettiness.

Guido created the bleached-out, surfer-punk style wigs for the show. "It's blonde with dark roots, boyish, a little bit grown out. It's kind of an L.A. kid."

Reference:

Tanya Taylor:

1.  Taalur, B (2014) NYFW: Tanya Taylor [Online]

Available at: http://thelist-mag.com/nyfw-tanya-taylor-spring/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

2. Space NK apothecary (2014) NYFW: Backstage at Tanya Taylor SS15 [Online]

Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/467881848760957561/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

3. Nars Cosmetics (2014) Nars Backstage Tanya Taylor SS15 [Online]

Available at: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152587888051387.1073741842.53590256386/10152587888526387/?type=3&permPage=1

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

4. Nars Cosmetics (2014) Nars Backstage Tanya Taylor SS15 [Online]

Available at: https://www.facebook.com/narscosmetics/photos/a.10152587888051387.1073741842.53590256386/10152587888176387/?type=3&permPage=1

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

5. Kaddour, N. (2014) Nars SS'15 make-up looks from New York Fashion Week. [Online]

Available at: http://najlakaddour.com/nars-spring-summer-2015-makeup-looks-new-york-fashion-week/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

6. Kaddour, N. (2014) Nars SS'15 make-up looks from New York Fashion Week. [Online]

Available at: http://najlakaddour.com/nars-spring-summer-2015-makeup-looks-new-york-fashion-week/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

7. Kaddour, N. (2014) Nars SS'15 make-up looks from New York Fashion Week. [Online]

Available at: http://najlakaddour.com/nars-spring-summer-2015-makeup-looks-new-york-fashion-week/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Burberry:

1. Flowers, S. (2014) How to look like a Burberry girl. [Online]

Available at: http://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion-week/beauty-blog/burberry-beauty-report-lfw-aw14
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

2. Flowers, S. (2014) How to look like a Burberry girl. [Online].

Available at: http://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion-week/beauty-blog/burberry-beauty-report-lfw-aw14
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Wendy Rowe. (2014) London Fashion Week. [Online]. Available at: http://wendyrowe.com/london-fashion-week-aw14
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Get the gloss. (2014) Best beauty trends from London Fashion Week AW14. [Online].
Available at: http://www.getthegloss.com/gallery/best-beauty-trends-from-london-fashion-week-aw14#slide-15
(Accessed 29 November 2015)

3. Testino, M. for Burberry (2014) Best friends Cara Delevingne and Suki Waterhouse are the faces of Burberry's new Bloomsbury-inspired collection. [Online].
Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2652958/Cara-Delevingne-Suki-Waterhouse-help-unveil-Burberrys-AW14-collection.html
(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

4. Scents and sensible style. (2014) 7 b's to remember from Burberry Prorsum AW14 show. [Online]. Available at: http://zeensfashiondotcom.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/burberry-aw14.jpg

(Accessed 29 November 2015)

5. Golding, E. (2014) Ted Edit: Burberry AW14 . [Online]

Available at: http://www.beautybyemily.co.uk/edit-burberry-aw14/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Marc Jacobs: 

1. Marks, O. (2013) Cara and Georgia get crops for Marc Jacobs SS14 show. [Online]

Available at: http://assets.instyle.co.uk/instyle/live/styles/article_landscape_600_wide/s3/13/09/Cara_Delevinge_Marc_Jacobs.jpg?itok=JKiNiW9j

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

Paula. (2013) Marc Jacobs NYFW. [Online]

Available at: http://theldndiaries.com/marc-jacobs-nyfw/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

2. Scotland redesigned. (2013) New York Fashion Week SS14 Beauty Trends. [Online]

Available at: http://scotlandredesigned.com/news/article/115/new-york-fashion-week-ss14-beauty-trends

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

3. Scotland redesigned. (2013) New York Fashion Week SS14 Beauty Trends. [Online]

Available at: http://scotlandredesigned.com/news/article/115/new-york-fashion-week-ss14-beauty-trends

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

4. Scotland redesigned. (2013) New York Fashion Week SS14 Beauty Trends. [Online]

Available at: http://scotlandredesigned.com/news/article/115/new-york-fashion-week-ss14-beauty-trends

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)

5. Piercy, C. (2013) The beauty report: Surfer punk bowl cuts and graphic teal eyes at Marc Jacobs. [Online]

Available at: http://www.vogue.com/867293/the-beauty-report-surfer-punk-bowl-cuts-and-graphic-teal-eyes-at-marc-jacobs/

(Accessed: 29 November 2015)