Contouring- Editorial & Catwalk Look
Monday- 12th October 2015
Today's lesson was all about contouring. We had a guest lecturer Sarah, who demonstrated the difference between a softer editorial look and a stronger catwalk look.
Sarah first talked about the different contouring techniques for different face shapes:
She then started the demo by cleaning her hands and then prep then skin: cleanse, tone, moisturise. She massaged the moisturiser into then skin. This helped her to feel the skin texture and identify what products she will be using for the model.
Sarah then moved onto the foundation. She applied Face and Body from MAC for a natural look, applying it with a fluffy Charles Fox brush.
She then moved on to contouring. She used a palette from Mehron for this: Celebré HD Pro Palette. She used the same domed fluffy brush from Charles Fox to do the contouring. This helped her to create a more natural effect as fluffy brushes pick up less product and you can really work the product into then skin.
After the skin Sarah moved on to the eyes. She used a Ben Nye eyeshadow palette. She first applied a skin colour tone to the whole eyelid up to the brows. She then applied a slightly darker colour into the crease, followed by a dark cool toned brown colour to add depth to the outer corners of the eye.
She then applied a very dark brown eyeshadow to the upper lash line to make the lashes look thicker and applied a coat of mascara with a small fan brush. With these type of brushes you can easily apply mascara on both sides of the lashes and work it really close to the roots of the lashes. For the eyebrows Sarah used a medium brown eyeshadow, and following the natural shape of the brows she only filled in any gaps.
As the model had a cold sore Sarah had to be really careful when applying lip products. She used a natural colour lip pencil to outline and fill in the lips. After the application Sarah sprayed the pencil with IPA and then sharpened the pencil. This completely sanitised the lip pencil.
Catwalk look:
Catwalk makeup is generally heavier than editorial makeup because it's seen from a distance.
After applying a MAC Strobe cream onto the skin Sarah decided to go for a full coverage foundation.
She then used the same derma colour concealer palette to hide any discolouration underneath the eyes and in the inner corners of the eyes and powdered the face.
Instead of using cream products for contouring (like she did for the editorial look), Sarah decided to go for powder products.
With contouring you can really define certain areas of the face like the nose, cheekbones and jaw-line. It is best to use completely matt products with cool undertones for this purpose.
After contouring, Sarah applied a blush to the apples of the cheek and blended it towards the temples.
For the eyes she used the same Ben Nye palette but really built up the colours by adding more layers. On top of the browns she used a shimmery eyeshadow to make the eyes pop. She then applied black eyeliner to the upper and lower lash lines and applied 2-3 coats of mascara to really intensify the eyes.
For the brows she decided to use a pencil instead of eyeshadow. She drew on the base line, following the natural shape and then drew on the top line as well and lightly filled in the brows. This method is often used to make the brows look thicker and more defined.
For the lips Sarah used a darker red toned pencil to outline the lips and then filled in the lips with a darker red toned lipstick.
Practical:
After the demo we paired up. (My model was actually the same model as it was for the demo).
I decided to do the slightly stronger and more defined catwalk look on my model.
After prepping her skin I started with colour correcting the blueness underneath her eyes with a slightly warmer, peach toned concealer, and the redness on her cheeks.
I then applied MAC Full Coverage foundation with a Real Techniques Expert Face Brush to really buff it into the skin. I went back with a bit of concealer using a NYX Concealer palette to pinpoint-conceal in the areas where her skin needed a bit more coverage. After stepping back to see if she needed any more concealing I decided it was enough and she did not need any more.
I then applied a translucent powder from Ben Nye in the T-zone to take away any shine.
I then moved on to contouring underneath my model's cheekbones, the sides and the tip of her nose, on the top of her forehead and the temples, and underneath her jaw-line using a NYX Contour Palette.
I then applied a champagne colour highlighter with a bit of a sheen onto the top of her cheekbones, on the bridge of the nose, in the cupid's bow and in the centre of her forehead.
I also applied a pink toned blusher by MAC to the apples of the cheek.
After finishing the skin I moved onto the eyebrows. With a dark brown eyebrow pencil by Anastasia Beverly Hills I first drew on the base- and top lines and I filled in any gaps in my model's eyebrows using the same pencil. I then brushed through the brows to blend everything together. This really defined her brows.
I moved onto the eyes. I first applied a light cream colour by MAC (Brulé) to the whole eyelid. I than defined the crease using a medium brown eyeshadow (MAC Cork) and went back with an even darker brown (a mixture of MAC Brun and Embark)to build up the colour in the outer corner of the eyes to really intensify them.
The next step was to apply a very dark brown eyeliner (NYX 902 Brown) to the upper and lower lash-lines followed by a black mascara by MAC (Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash Mascara), using a tiny fan brush. These brushes are amazing to apply mascara with as you can really work the product into the roots of the lashes.
Here is the final result:
Overview and evaluation of the lesson:
Overall I feel that contouring is a quite important part of a makeup, whether it's for a more natural daytime look or for a more defined makeup for a special occasion.
You can be very light-handed with the products just to liven up the skin a little, or you can really change and define the shape of the face.
Contouring is a great way to hide double-chin, or to make the nose look slimmer and to really carve out the shape of the cheekbones. You can also make a wide forehead look smaller.
Anything that you want to look a bit more sunken in or appear to be less you can use a cool toned brown shade that's 2-3 shades darker than your natural skin tone.
Anything you want to bring forward and enhance you can user a highlighter.
I believe that it's really the balance of the shadows and highlights next to each other that makes the difference! And of course BLEND, BLEND, BLEND! You do not want to see harsh lines on your face.
I somehow prefer using powder products for contouring. I feel like I am not 100% confident in using cream products for contouring and that I need to practice that a bit more.
But overall I do think that contouring is such an important step for enhancing the bone structure and the natural features of the face.
Product List:
- Kaeso Beauty Calming Cleanser
- Kaeso Beauty Calming Toner
- Kaeso Beauty Calming Moisturiser
- NYX Dark Circle Concealer in Peach
- MAC Full Coverage Foundation in shade NC30?
- Real Techniques Expert Face Brush
- NYX Concealer Palette in Light 3CP01
- Ben Nye Loose Powder- Translucent
- NYX Contour Palette- Shade HCPS06
- NYX Contour Palette- Shade HCPS04
- MAC Blusher in shade Dollymix
- Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wizz in Medium Ash Brown
- MAC Brulé eyeshadow
- MAC Cork eyeshadow
- MAC Brun eyeshadow
- MAC Embark eyeshadow
- NYX 902 Brown eyeliner pencil
- MAC Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash Mascara
Bye for now!
Brig:)
References:
Photo of face shapes and different contouring techniques:
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