Monday 1 February 2016

Working with glitters and pigments


Pat McGrath inspired makeup look with glitters and pigments


1 February 2016


We had some creative fun with Holly today. She recreated Pat McGrath's glittery makeup look for the Dior (John Galliano) A/W 2011/2012 fashion show.


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Before the demo Holly talked about different MAC mixing mediums, because it is really important to use the correct mixing medium when it comes to glitters and pigments. There are different MAC Mixing mediums for different parts of the body as follows:

  • MAC Eyeliner mixing medium- Made specifically for the eyes
  • MAC Water based mixing medium- For the face (it's really good to use with MAC Chroma Cakes, it will stick better when mixed with this mixing medium)
  • MAC Alcohol based mixing medium- For the body, do not use it on the face
  • MAC Gel based mixing medium- Also for the body
  • MAC Lash mixing medium-For lashes
  • MAC Face & Body mixing medium- You can mix it with shimmer powders or if you want to sheer out a foundation
  • MAC Matt and shine mixing medium- Acts pretty much the same as vaseline (You can use Vaseline for an editorial shoot, but not recommended for anything else)

Holly's Demo


Photo by me

Photo by me
Holly started the demo by prepping the skin. After moisturising the skin, Holly decided to go back with a little bit of toner on a cotton pad to take away any remaining oils on the skin. Because Pat McGrath often takes the makeup above the eyebrows and around the eyes, Holly recommended to start with the glitter on the face, than move on to the eyes as it can get really messy. Holly used a masking tape to create a sharp edge at the outer corner of the eyes. She applied a MAC cream colour base on the eyelids, all the way up to the eyebrows (MAC Black Track is also good as a base)
She than applied a little bit of Vaseline over the cream base. She then started sticking on the glitter and sequins. She really layered on the glitters, the same way as you would with an eyeshadow, but instead of blending you can use more than 1 colour to create dimension. 
Holly first applied silver glitter by Makeup Forever all over the lid. A good tip is to lie some tissues all over the face because it is really messy. The good thing about using a tape is that once you take it off, it will be clean and sharp underneath. 

Holly used a flat eyeshadow brush to pat on the glitter. She than added a little bit of Black 3D glitter by MAC. Holly used glitter like an eyeshadow and applied dark colours where the hollows of the face are. She than used slightly larger chunks of glitter. She than dipped her finger in a bit of eyelash glue and applied it over the glitter on the temples for the sequins to stick to. She than grabbed some tweezers and applied the larger sequins one by one. She than layered some gold glitter by MAC on top.

Photo by me

Photo by me


 Practical:

My inspiration was Pat McGrath's makeup look for John Galliano's S/S 2011 Ready to Wear collection. 


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I started by cutting a zig-zag shape out of a pice of masking tape and stuck it on my model's hairline on both sides. I than applied gold liquid metal by Illamasqua, followed by a gold pigment by Barry M. I than applied a small amount of Vaseline on top and lightly dusted some gold glitter over the Vaseline.


Photo by me

Photo by me


Photo by me
I than moved on to the eyes. I applied a small amount of MAC Black Track on the moving eyelid and blended it out with my fingers, towards the brow bone. I than applied a dark purple eyeshadow on top, in the inner- and outer corners of the eye. I than applied Get Ready mono eyeshadow by Makeup Revolution below and above the eyebrows and underneath the eyes and blended it into the purple. I lightly dusted some Neo-Orange pigment by MAC on top of the orange eyeshadow to intensify the colour. 
I than applied some Vaseline over the colours and applied purple glitter on top, followed by some gold sequins. I also sprayed a generous amount of All Over Body Shimmer in Boudoir Pink by The Body Shop and some Static pigment by Illamasqua to give the whole look a nice shimmery glow. I applied the same Neo-Orange pigment by MAC to the centre of the lips, followed by a touch of Static pigment by Illamasqua.








The final look:


Photo by me

Photo by me
Conclusion:

I was not happy with the result at all. It just seems like a big colourful mess to me. When I do makeup I like to have a plan or at least an idea in my head. This time I was just experimenting with colours and textures, and I didn't quite like the outcome. Next time I would definitely make a plan in my head or a face chart if I have enough time for preparation. Glitter can be so messy that it can ruin the whole look if you are not careful enough. It actually looks slightly better on the photos, but it is certainly not one of my favourite looks I created.

Product List:
  • Illamasqua Gold Liquid Metal
  • Barry M Gold pigment
  • Gold glitter
  • MAC Black Track eyeliner
  • Dark purple eyeshadow from Pro Makeup Cosmetics 88 Palette
  • Get Ready mono eyeshadow by Makeup Revolution
  • Neo-Orange pigment by MAC
  • Vaseline
  • Purple cosmetic glitter
  • Gold sequins from Makeup Forever
  • All Over Body Shimmer in Boudoir Pink by The Body Shop
  • Static pigment by Illamasqua

Reference:


Picture 1: Emma (2011) Christian Dior A/W 2011/2012 makeup and nail polish [Online] Available at: http://vinylmag.org/2014/05/05/makeup-artistry-the-best-makeup-artists-out-there/ (Accessed: 01 February 2016)

Picture 3: Available at: http://modearte.com/wp-content/uploads/Pat-Mcgrath-Dior-Galliano.jpg (Accessed: 01 February 2016)
Picture 4: Poppe, R. (2014) Pat McGrath [Online] Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/514465957403779562/ (Accessed: 01 February 2016)
Picture 5: Into the gloss (2011) John Galliano Spring 2011 [Online] Available at: https://intothegloss.com/2010/10/john-galliano-spring-2011/

(Accessed: 01 February 2016)




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