Basic Shampooing & Conditioning Techniques

Basic science and basic shampooing & conditioning techniques:


Leading hairdressers know the importance of good shampooing and conditioning. These are the first experiences the client has of our services. Correct shampooing and conditioning  is essential as it cleans the hair and scalp, helps keep them healthy and it can affect the success of most other hairdressing services.

Why shampoo and condition the hair?

• To remove natural oils, skin cells, dust and dirt
• To remove built up of product
• To make the hair more manageable for its next service

What will happen if this is not carried out properly?

• A barrier can be left between the hair and the chemical being applied
• Shampoo technique is vital for soothing muscle & nerve endings in the scalp

Basic Science

What does pH stand for?-Potential Hydrogen.

pH values:

• pH values are used in all aspects of hairdressing
• The range is from 0-14
• Neutral is in the middle at 7.0
• Less than 7.0 is acidic
• More than 7.0 is alkaline
• Lemon juice has a low pH of 2.0
• Hair and skin have a pH value of 4.5- 5.5

Picture by me of the hair lesson handout

Effects on hair:

• Acidic- Closes the cuticles, Conditions the hair
• Alkaline- Swells the hair shaft, Cuticle rises, Damage can occur

Diet & Nutrition:

• Hair needs protein from foods like fish, meat, milk, cheese, and cereals to make it strong
• Vitamin C stimulates the hair growth and regulates the generation of pigments in the hair strand
• Vitamin B12 supports feeding the follicle. It is found it chicken, fish, eggs and milk

How shampoo and conditioner works:

Shampoo easily mixes with water allowing grease, dirt and oil to be rinsed out off the hair. It works because it contains detergent molecules. Each detergent molecule consists of two parts- one part is attracted to dirt and oil, the other part is attracted to water. The detergent molecule digs into the dirt and oil on the surface of the hair and scalp. The head of the detergent molecule has a negative electric charge. As a result of massage movements, dirt an oil is repelled from the hair and rinsed away in the water.

How conditioner works:

Hair is made of a protein called keratin. Hair in poor condition may have been damaged by overuse of heated styling equipment, incorrect brushing or too many chemical treatments. Conditioners strengthen and moisturise the hair. There are many types of conditioner. They include the following:

Surface conditioner coats the hair shaft and smoothes down the cuticle scales leaving the hair tangle-free.

Anti-oxidant conditioner prevents any further oxidation to the hair shaft after chemical treatments.

Specialist treatment conditioners strengthen the hair shaft internally by filling the air spaces caused by damage with liquid protein. This gives the hair added elasticity, sheen and manageability.

1.

Shampooing the hair:

How long should it last?- Depending on the length and thickness of the hair a basic shampoo and surface conditioning should take around 5-10 minutes.

Water temperature and flow

The temperature of the water plays an important part in cleansing the hair and scalp. The flow of water is important too. Both the temperature and flow you use will depend on the amount of hair the client has and the sensitivity of their scalp. Very hot water will burn the client’s scalp, but if the water is not hot enough, the hair will not be fully cleansed. 

Before and during each shampoo, it is essential to test the temperature of the water, either on the back of your hand or on the inside of your wrist. Remember to check the temperature of the water is comfortable for your client regularly. Adapt the water temperature, flow and direction to suit the needs of your client’s hair. Always turn the tap off between shampoos.

Choosing shampoo

You will need to choose the most appropriate shampoo for the client’s hair and scalp condition. Make sure you know which shampoo to use.

Be careful not to spill shampoo, but if you do, you will need to clear up any spillages straight away for the safety of your client, colleagues and yourself.

Massage techniques

During the shampoo and application of conditioner, you will need to use certain massage movements. The most popular movements used are:

• Effleurage- Effleurage is used to spread the shampoo throughout the hair at the start of the shampoo and each time you repeat the application of shampoo, using the palms with light, slow, stroking movements. It distributes the product and has a soothing effect
• Rotary- Rotary massage is used during the shampoo. It is much deeper and faster than effleurage. Your hands should be claw-like when positioned on the client’s scalp and should move in small, fast, circular movements with a firm pressure. It stimulates the scalp and removes dirt and grease
• Friction- Friction is a massage movement that involves a fast rubbing technique and has a light, gentle plucking action. It provides gentle stimulation to the scalp
• Petrissage- Petrissage is a slower version of the rotary movement and is used when carrying out a conditioning treatment. It should totally relax the client, assist penetration of the conditioner and promote blood circulation. Petrissage helps to make the hair smooth, shiny and manageable

The amount of shampoo you use for each client will be different depending on the length and thickness of their hair. A small amount of shampoo, no bigger than the size of a ten pence piece, is usually sufficient. Dispense the shampoo into the palm of your hand. Rub both palms together and then place the palms of your hands on the client’s hair, smoothing the shampoo on to the scalp and down the hair length.

You can now use the massage movements. For a thorough shampoo and conditioning treatment, make sure your massage techniques achieve an even distribution of product over the hair and scalp. Take care not to pull your client’s hair or scratch their scalp. This will cause irritation and discomfort to your client and may prevent the next part of the hair service from being carried out.

Applying and removing conditioners

When you have completed the shampoo, you may have to apply conditioning products using the effleurage and petrissage massage movements. Always apply conditioners to the hair following the stylist’s and manufacturer’s instructions. A conditioning treatment will smooth down the cuticle scales, maintain moisture levels, protect and promote shine and improve the feel of the hair.

Surface conditioner is applied to protect and promote shine. When removing conditioning products it is important to:

• avoid disturbing the direction of the cuticle
• comb through your client’s hair without causing damage to the hair and scalp
• leave your client’s hair free of excess water and product.

After you have finished shampooing and conditioning, rinse the hair thoroughly. This is important to the success of the following treatment. Towel-dry the hair and wrap it in a towel, using a turban style.

Completing the shampooing and conditioning treatment

You will need to comb through from the ends to the roots of the hair, without causing any damage to the hair and scalp in preparation for the next treatment.

The client will welcome any advice or guidance you can offer about how to maintain their newly conditioned hair at home. Always be knowledgeable about the products your salon sells. Discuss with your client, at the consultation stage and at the basin, the suitability of professional shampoo and conditioning products.

Reference:

1. [Online] 
Available at: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMKmCy1LlQzCU0EjJgZlGpv_EtB5sYhX40bQaDQIqR8n0HVQj-YvCiY6CYMSuBOxj7y7Suo_WMVNUr6whSiOL-kGmBmVKMvPsRZbFrAYUP4jujz-d4yrOhVAWqnh6lMBr_FXOnhwmHyog/s1600/surfactant2.png
(Accessed on: 05 December 2015)
[Online]
Available at: http://www.pearsonschoolsandfecolleges.co.uk/AssetsLibrary/PDFs/GH1L1NVQHairdressing-updated.pdf
(Accessed: 05 December 2015)