Jean-Pierre Braganza Make-Up Look

Eyeliner techniques

Today's lesson was all about the Jean-Pierre Braganza AW15 make-up look. Holly wanted to see if we can recreate this runway look. 
It is not the prettiest, most feminine look in my opinion, but it is indeed a very powerful catwalk look with clean, fresh complexion and graphic eyeliner. This look falls into the "Beautiful and damned eyes" MAC makeup trend category.

Holly's Demo:

Holly first prepped the skin. She cleansed, toned and moisturised the model's skin. As this is a catwalk/fashion look she did not want to see too much product on the skin. Instead of using a ton of foundation she wanted us to create a dewy complexion with very minimal products, and concentrate on pinpoint concealing any blemishes.

She started the look by applying MAC's Natural Radiance Base primer. She than mixed two shades of MAC Face&Body, C5 and C3 to get the perfect shade for the model's skin tone. She also mixed equal amount of strobe cream. She only applied this mixture to the areas of the face that needed coverage, especially the centre part of the face. She really buffed the foundation into the skin, using a fluffy blending brush. Holly said that normally make-up artists spend the most time on prepping the skon backstage, as a fresh, clean, flawless complexion is essential for runway looks. Holly then used a MAC concealer palette where a bit more coverage was needed. She than powdered the skin underneath the eyes and in the T-zone(in the centre part of the face), using a translucent powder.
Instead of using shimmery highlighting products, Holly dabbed on a little bit of essential skin oil to highlight the high points of the face.

She than moved onto the eyebrows. The only product she used here was a clear brow gel by MAC. She brushed the hair upwards before applying the brow gel.

Before continuing with the eyes, Holly talked about the importance of applying the catwalk look as uniform as possible, but adapting the makeup to the model's eyeshape. 

For the eyes, Holly used Black Track by MAC. She slightly pulled up the upper eyelid the create a smooth surface in the crease. She applied a sharp line just above the crease. Ske kept on asking her model to open her eyes, making sure that the line was in the right place. She than moved on to the actual eyeliner. One thing that we had to keep in mind was that the edge of the eyeliner is quite rounded in the outer corner of the eyes, and there is no flick. Once she was happy with the eyeliner, she drew on the line underneath the eyes and applied a pink lipstick under that line.

     

Practical and evaluation: 

As my model had quite a few blemishes, it was a good opportunity for me to practice concealing. After I made sure that her clothing is covered with a disposable towel, I washed and sanitised my hands. I first used a cleansing milk to remove any excess oils from the skin. I double-cleansed her skin to remove dead skin cells as well, because she had patches of dry skin around her blemishes. A cleansing milk is a great choice for dry skin in my opinion, because it's cry gentle and you already moisturising the skin while cleansing it. I than wiped her face with a calming toner, using cotton pads. After this step I applied a serum to the dry areas of her face. I really massaged it into the skin. I think this step really helped to soften the skin. I than massaged plenty of moisturiser into her skin. After I was happy with the texture of her skin, I decided to conceal the redness in her skin. I used a mixture of a yellow and green concealer to counteract the redness. She also had some blueness underneath the eyes. For this I used a peach toned concealer which is great to conceal any blueness. I than mixed equal amount of strobe cream and MAC Face&Body foundation in shades C3 and C4 to get the right shade and consistency. I first applied it with a flat foundation brush, than buffed it into the skin with a fluffy brush. I think this foundation has just enough coverage to even out the skin tone but not mask the skin. The skin is still showing through (and also my model's freckles) but it has a nice even colour and surface which I was quite happy about. I think I've done a quite good job on the skin.

I than applied a Ben Nye Translucent powder to the T-zone and also applied a generous amount of the  powder to her eyelids as she has quite oily eyelids. I decided to use a black gel liner by Inglot, instead of the MAC one as this one has a much better colour payoff. However this liner is so intense that it is nearly impossible to remove:)

When I applied the top line into her crease I asked her to open her eyes to check the symmetry. When she closed her eyes again I realised that the liner transferred a little bit onto her eyelid. I dipped a cotton bud into makeup remover to clean it up but it just did not move. I was really shocked to be honest. I tried two different make-up removers and none of them worked. I than dipped the cotton bud into the cleansing milk that I used for her skin and that worked quite well but it messed up the look a little bit. I went back with a little bit of the leftover foundation to fix it and applied plenty of powder to her lids again but because she has really oily eyelids, the liner kept on smudging and moving around. So next time I will make sure to apply an eyeshadow primer on the lids.

After I was happy with the symmetry of the two top lines, I lined her top- and bottom lash lines, making sure that the edges are rounded. I than applied the bottom line underneath her eyes. Looking back at the pictures I think the bottom lines are a bit too thick and heavy. I than blended a pink lipstick underneath the bottom line. I finished the look with brushing clear eyebrow gel by MAC through her eyebrows and applying a coat of mascara to the top lashes only. I also applied a clear lip balm to her lips.

And the final look:

Overview of the lesson:

I am quite happy with the concealing and the whole complexion, but looking back at the photos of my work, there are a few things I would definitely change about the eyes.
For this particular look, I wouldn't use the Inglot eyeliner again, because it is so hard to remove it, therefore nearly impossible to correct any mistakes. I would also change the shape and the direction of the eyeliner underneath the eyes. I think the line is a bit too thick, and is a bit too intense.
But in general I enjoyed creating this look, and achieving a clear looking skin was definitely a challenge, as my model had a bad skin day, but I think I've done a quite good job on the skin.
I would also fill in the eyebrows a little, especially the outer parts of them.

Product List:

• Kaeso Beauty Cleansing Milk
• Kaeso Beauty Toner
• Superdrug Vitamin E serum
• Kaeso Beauty Moisturiser
• D2 and D3 shades of Dermacolor concealer palette
• NYX Pro Concealer in peach
• MAC Strobe cream
• MAC Face and Body foundation in C3 and C4 shades
• Ben Nye Translucent Powder
• Inglot gel eyeliner in black
• Lancôme Color Fever Shine lipstick in shade 318
• MAC Haute & Naughty Too Black Lash Mascara
• MAC clear eyebrow gel
• Clear lip balm